¹ "More Maxims of Mark," Mark Twain: Collected Tales, Sketches, Speeches, & Essays, 1891-1910 (New York: Library of America, 1992), 942.

² "Dior, Christian," The Columbia Encyclopedia, 6th ed. (New York: Columbia University Press, 2001-07), .

³ Amy M. Spindler, "Dior's Look, 50 Years Ago And Now," The New York Times, 13 December 1996.

⁴ Amy M. Spindler, "Dior's Look, 50 Years Ago And Now," The New York Times, 13 December 1996.

⁵ "Dior, Christian," The Columbia Encyclopedia, 6th ed. (New York: Columbia University Press, 2001-07), .

⁶ Current Biography (1982), The H. W. Wilson Company, http://vnweb.hwwilsonweb.com/hww/results/getResults.jhtml?_DARGS=/hww/results/results_common.jhtml.7.

⁷ Randye Hoder, "125 Years: Commemorative Fashion Section," Los Angeles Times, 22 October 2006, I38.

⁸ Ruth La Ferla, "Over the Top, as He Wants to Be," The New York Times, 13 April 2003.

⁹ See Ruth La Ferla, "Over the Top, as He Wants to Be," The New York Times, 13 April 2003; and the Andre Leon Talley interview in Essence (November 1996).

¹⁰ See the Andre Leon Talley interview with Jill Hudson for the Washington Post, 28 March 1994.

¹¹ George Francis Dow, Every Day Life in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, new ed. (1935; New York: Dover Publications, 1988), 45.

¹² George Francis Dow, Every Day Life in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, new ed. (1935; New York: Dover Publications, 1988), 5.

¹³ John Demos, A Little Commonwealth: Family Life in Plymouth Colony, 2d ed. (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1999), 4.

¹⁴ Caleb Johnson, "Crime and Punishment in the Plymouth Colony," Pilgrim History, MayflowerHistory.com, http://www.mayflowerhistory.com/History/CrimeAndPunishment.php, accessed 9 January 2009.

¹⁵ George Francis Dow, Every Day Life in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, new ed. (1935; New York: Dover Publications, 1988), 63.

¹⁶ Merideth Wright, Everyday Dress of Rural America: 1783-1800, With Instructions and Patterns (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1992), 7.

¹⁷ Alex Kuczynski, "How Blue Were My Jeans," New York Times, 28 September 2006, G4.

¹⁸ Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 98-99.

¹⁹ Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 99.

²⁰ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 1.

²¹ Harper's Bazar, 1867, quoted in Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 10.

²² Merideth Wright, Everyday Dress of Rural America: 1783-1800, With Instructions and Patterns (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1992), 7.

²³ Olivia Flynt advertisement, 1876, in Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 4.

²⁴ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88; "The blue jeans story, or how waist overalls for gold diggers, gun slingers and rebels without a cause got smart, clothed the American dream and conquered the world," New Internationalist, June 1998, Iss. 302, 26.

²⁵ Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 99.

²⁶ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 12.

²⁷ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88; "The blue jeans story, or how waist overalls for gold diggers, gun slingers and rebels without a cause got smart, clothed the American dream and conquered the world," New Internationalist, June 1998, Iss. 302, 26.

²⁸ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88; "The blue jeans story, or how waist overalls for gold diggers, gun slingers and rebels without a cause got smart, clothed the American dream and conquered the world," New Internationalist, June 1998, Iss. 302, 26.

²⁹ Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 99.

³⁰ See Sweatshop USA: The American Sweatshop in Historical and Global Perspective, eds. Daniel E. Bender and Richard A. Greenwald (New York : Routledge, 2003), 80-81.

³¹ Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 99.

³² Randye Hoder, "125 Years: Commemorative Fashion Section," Los Angeles Times, 22 October 2006, I38.

³³ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88.

³⁴ Randye Hoder, "125 Years: Commemorative Fashion Section," Los Angeles Times, 22 October 2006, I38.

³⁵ See the Harper's Bazaar survey conducted in 1934, cited in Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 72.

³⁶ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88; "The blue jeans story, or how waist overalls for gold diggers, gun slingers and rebels without a cause got smart, clothed the American dream and conquered the world," New Internationalist, June 1998, Iss. 302, 26.

³⁷ See Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 7.

³⁸ Randye Hoder, "125 Years: Commemorative Fashion Section," Los Angeles Times, 22 October 2006, I38.

³⁹ Randye Hoder, "125 Years: Commemorative Fashion Section," Los Angeles Times, 22 October 2006, I38.

⁴⁰ Amy M. Spindler, "Dior's Look, 50 Years Ago And Now," The New York Times, 13 December 1996.

⁴¹ Randye Hoder, "125 Years: Commemorative Fashion Section," Los Angeles Times, 22 October 2006, I38.

⁴² Jenny Lyn Bader, "The Miniskirt as a National Security Threat," New York Times, 10 September 2000, 4.3.

⁴³ Meritor Savings Bank v. Vinson, 477 U.S. 57 (1986).

⁴⁴ Jenny Lyn Bader, "The Miniskirt as a National Security Threat," New York Times, 10 September 2000, 4.3.

⁴⁵ Sandra O'Loughlin, "Levi's boasts 150 years of wares via nostalgic vintage jeans tour," Brandweek 44:19 12 May 2003, 41.

⁴⁶ Evelyn Iritani, "Hopes for a Vietnam Trade Shift," Los Angeles Times, 24 July 2006, C1.

⁴⁷ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

⁴⁸ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

⁴⁹ Greg Hitt, "Made in Washington: How the Textile Industry Alone Won Quotas on Chinese Imports," Wall Street Journal, 10 November 2005, A.1.

⁵⁰ See Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 1.

⁵¹ Niko Koppel, "Are Your Jeans Sagging? Go Directly to Jail," New York Times, 30 August 2007, http://www.nytimes.com/2007/08/30/fashion/30baggy.html?_r=1&oref=slogin, accessed 9 January 2009.

⁵² "Baggy Pants Ban Signed into Law in Louisiana," National Public Radio, Talk of the Nation, 4 September 2007, http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=14157759, accessed 9 January 2009; Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 1.

⁵³ Niko Koppel, "Are Your Jeans Sagging? Go Directly to Jail," New York Times, 30 August 2007, http://www.nytimes.com/2007/08/30/fashion/30baggy.html?_r=1&oref=slogin, accessed 9 January 2009.

⁵⁴ Bridget Gutierrez, "Atlanta Public Schools Ban Saggy Pants," The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, 10 December 2007, http://www.ajc.com/metro/content/metro/atlanta/stories/2007/12/10/saggy_1211.html, accessed 9 January 2009.

⁵⁵ Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 98.

⁵⁶ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 27.

⁵⁷ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 27.

⁵⁸ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 27.

⁵⁹ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 27.

⁶⁰ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 28.

⁶¹ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 28.

⁶² Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 28.

⁶³ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 28.

⁶⁴ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 17.

⁶⁵ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 22.

⁶⁶ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 22.

⁶⁷ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 24.

⁶⁸ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 24.

⁶⁹ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 24.

⁷⁰ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 66.

⁷¹ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 77.

⁷² Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 77.

⁷³ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 77.

⁷⁴ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

⁷⁵ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

⁷⁶ Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 4.

⁷⁷ Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 4.

⁷⁸ Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 4.

⁷⁹ Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 4.

⁸⁰ Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 13.

⁸¹ Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 13.

⁸² Jenny Lyn Bader, "The Miniskirt as a National Security Threat," New York Times, 10 September 2000, 4.3.

⁸³ Jenny Lyn Bader, "The Miniskirt as a National Security Threat," New York Times, 10 September 2000, 4.3.

⁸⁴ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

⁸⁵ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

⁸⁶ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

⁸⁷ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88.

⁸⁸ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88.

⁸⁹ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

⁹⁰ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

⁹¹ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

⁹² Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

⁹³ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

⁹⁴ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88.

⁹⁵ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88.

⁹⁶ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88.

⁹⁷ Michael Barbaro and Julie Creswell, "With a Trademark in Its Pocket, Levi's Turns to Suing Its Rivals," New York Times, 29 January 2007, A1.

⁹⁸ Evelyn Iritani, "Hopes for a Vietnam Trade Shift," Los Angeles Times, 24 July 2006, C1.

⁹⁹ Evelyn Iritani, "Hopes for a Vietnam Trade Shift," Los Angeles Times, 24 July 2006, C1.

¹⁰⁰ Greg Hitt, "Made in Washington: How the Textile Industry Alone Won Quotas on Chinese Imports," Wall Street Journal, 10 November 2005, A.1.

¹⁰¹ Commerce Department data, cited in Greg Hitt, "Made in Washington: How the Textile Industry Alone Won Quotas on Chinese Imports," Wall Street Journal, 10 November 2005, A.1.

¹⁰² Commerce Department data, cited in Greg Hitt, "Made in Washington: How the Textile Industry Alone Won Quotas on Chinese Imports," Wall Street Journal, 10 November 2005, A.1.

¹⁰³ Yet, as professor and former Black Panther Party member and activist Angela Davis has noted, these same iconic images—the afro hairstyle and the black leather jacket, for example—have since been stereotyped in popular culture and oftentimes in our understanding of the past. They carried important symbolic weight at the time, but our historical analyses must not risk reducing a "politics of liberation to a politics of fashion," as Davis argues. Angela Y. Davis, "Afro Images: Politics, Fashion, and Nostalgia," Critical Inquiry 21:1 (Autumn, 1994), pp. 37-39, 41-43, 45.

¹⁰⁴ Corina Zappia, "Shell-Toed Superstar," The Village Voice, 2 March 2005, http://www.villagevoice.com/nyclife/0509,zappia7,61619,15.html, accessed 9 January 2009.

¹⁰⁵ Merideth Wright, Everyday Dress of Rural America: 1783-1800, With Instructions and Patterns (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1992), 9.

¹⁰⁶ George Washington Plunkitt, "Dangers of the Dress Suit in Politics," recorded by journalist William L. Riordon, 1905, in Caroline Kennedy, A Patriot's Handbook: Songs, Poems, Stories, and Speeches Celebrating the Land We Love (New York: Hyperion, 2003), 85-6.

¹⁰⁷ Robin Givhan, "Hillary Clinton's Tentative Dip Into New Neckline Territory," Washington Post, 20 July 2007, C01.

¹⁰⁸ Charlotte Allen, "Sometimes It's Hard to Be A Woman," Los Angeles Times, 5 August 2007, M.6.

¹⁰⁹ Judith Warner, "The Cleavage Conundrum," New York Times, 28 July 2007, A15.

¹¹⁰ Charlotte Allen, "Sometimes It's Hard to Be A Woman," Los Angeles Times, 5 August 2007, M.6.

¹¹¹ Suzy Menkes, "Runways: Street-Smart Fashion and $1,500 Knockoffs," New York Times, 27 November 1994, A67.

¹¹² Suzy Menkes, "Runways: Street-Smart Fashion and $1,500 Knockoffs," New York Times, 27 November 1994, A67.

¹¹³ Barbara Mikkelson, "Red Hot Mamas," American History, Snopes.com, 27 September 2007, http://www.snopes.com/history/american/burnbra.asp, accessed 9 January 2009.

¹¹⁴ Alfred B. Sundquist, 1972, quoted in Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 50.

¹¹⁵ Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 50.

¹¹⁶ Ruth Rosen, The World Split Open: How the Modern Women's Movement Changed America (New York: Penguin Books, 2000), 13-14.

¹¹⁷ Betty Friedan, The Feminine Mystique (1963; New York: W.W. Norton, 2001), 261.

¹¹⁸ Betty Friedan, The Feminine Mystique (1963; New York: W.W. Norton, 2001), 15.

¹¹⁹ Sisqó, "The Thong Song," Unleash the Dragon (Def Soul: 2000), http://www.completealbumlyrics.com/lyric/29418/Sisqo++The+Thong+Song.html, accessed 7 January 2009.

¹²⁰ See Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 1.

¹²¹ Bridget Gutierrez, "Atlanta Public Schools Ban Saggy Pants," The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, 10 December 2007, http://www.ajc.com/metro/content/metro/atlanta/stories/2007/12/10/saggy_1211.html, accessed 9 January 2009.

¹²² "Baggy Pants Ban Signed into Law in Louisiana," National Public Radio, Talk of the Nation, 4 September 2007, http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=14157759, accessed 9 January 2009; Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 1.

¹²³ "Baggy Pants Ban Signed into Law in Louisiana," National Public Radio, Talk of the Nation, 4 September 2007, http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=14157759, accessed 9 January 2009; Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 1.

¹²⁴ Wade Goodwyn, "In Dallas, a Hip-Hop Plea: Pull Your Pants Up," National Public Radio, Morning Edition, 24 October 2007, http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=15534306, accessed 7 January 2009.

¹²⁵ "Saggy Pants Songwriter Sort of Says He's Sorry," National Public Radio, Bryant Park Project, 30 October 2007, http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=15766499, accessed 7 January 2009.

¹²⁶ Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 11.

¹²⁷ John Demos, A Little Commonwealth: Family Life in Plymouth Colony, 2d ed. (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1999), 53.

¹²⁸ Margaretta M. Lovell, Art in a Season of Revolution: Painters, Artisans, and Patrons in Early America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2005), 60.

¹²⁹ George Francis Dow, Every Day Life in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, new ed. (1935; New York: Dover Publications, 1988), 64.

¹³⁰ Margaretta M. Lovell, Art in a Season of Revolution: Painters, Artisans, and Patrons in Early America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2005), 99.

¹³¹ Linda Baumgarten, What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America (Williamsburg, VA: The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 2002), 60.

¹³² Margaretta M. Lovell, Art in a Season of Revolution: Painters, Artisans, and Patrons in Early America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2005), 59-60.

¹³³ Abigail Adams, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, 1799, quoted in Merideth Wright, Everyday Dress of Rural America: 1783-1800, With Instructions and Patterns (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1992), 20.

¹³⁴ All quotes from Linda Baumgarten, What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America (Williamsburg, VA: The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 2002), 100.

¹³⁵ Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 25.

¹³⁶ Deborah Gray White, Ar'n't I a Woman?: Female Slaves in the Plantation South (New York: W. W. Norton, 1999), 95.

¹³⁷ Linda Baumgarten, What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America (Williamsburg, VA: The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 2002), 64.

¹³⁸ See Merideth Wright, Everyday Dress of Rural America: 1783-1800, With Instructions and Patterns (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1992), 12.

¹³⁹ Christine Stansell, City of Women: Sex and Class in New York, 1789-1860 (New York: Knopf, 1986), 164.

¹⁴⁰ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 39.

¹⁴¹ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 84.

¹⁴² Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 3.

¹⁴³ Elizabeth Walton, "Commonly Held Misconceptions About Historic Costume," Clothesline: The Online Journal of Costume and Dress, http://www.clotheslinejournal.com/victorian.myths.html, accessed 7 January 2009.

¹⁴⁴ Merideth Wright, Everyday Dress of Rural America: 1783-1800, With Instructions and Patterns (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1992), 26.

¹⁴⁵ Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 23.

¹⁴⁶ Olivia Flynt advertisement, 1876, in Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 4.

¹⁴⁷ Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 23.

¹⁴⁸ Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 24, 53.

¹⁴⁹ "Testing Body Shapers," Good Housekeeping 228:1 (January 1999), pg. 54.

¹⁵⁰ Elaine Tyler May, Homeward Bound: American Families in the Cold War Era (Basic Books, 1988), 98.

¹⁵¹ Kyle Spencer, "Our Crash Course on the Bikini," Cosmopolitan 237:2 (August 2004), 178.

¹⁵² Elaine Tyler May, Homeward Bound: American Families in the Cold War Era (Basic Books, 1988), 98.

¹⁵³ William Oscar Johnson, "In the Swim: Through the Centuries, Swimsuits Have Gone from the Ridiculous to the Sublime, With A Few Strange Stops In Between," Sports Illustrated 70:6 (February 1989), pp. 20-27.

¹⁵⁴ Rose-Marie Turk, "Beauty and the Beach: Swimsuit Industry Zeroes In on Figure Flattery," Los Angeles Times, 26 May 1989, 1.

¹⁵⁵ See J.H. Crowther, E.M. Wolf, & N. Sherwood, "Epidemiology of bulimia nervosa," in The Etiology of Bulimia Nervosa: The Individual and Familial Context, eds. M. Crowther, D.L. Tennenbaum. S.E. Hobfoll, & M.A.P. Stephens (Washington, D.C.: Taylor & Francis, 1992), pp. 1-26; C.G. Fairburn, P.J. Hay, & S.L. Welch, "Binge eating and bulimia nervosa: Distribution and determinants," in Binge Eating: Nature, Assessment, and Treatment, eds. C.G. Fairburn & G.T. Wilson, (New York: Guilford, 1993), pp. 123-143.

¹⁵⁶ H.W. Hoek, and D. van Hoeken, "Review of the prevalence and incidence of eating disorders," International Journal of Eating Disorders (2003), 383-396.

¹⁵⁷ National Eating Disorders Association, Seattle, Washington, 2002 .

¹⁵⁸ See Evelyn Iritani, "In Trade, Globalization Can Divide Old Friends; Asia," Los Angeles Times, 10 October 1999, 1.

¹⁵⁹ Timothy J White. "NAFTA Revisited: Achievements and Challenges," Journal of Third World Studies 24:2 (Fall 2007), 236-9.

¹⁶⁰ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

¹⁶¹ Robert Reich, quoted in Deborah Solomon and Greg Hitt, "A Globalization Winner Joins in Trade Backlash; Exports Boost Iowa, But Workers Still Fret; Campaigns Take Note," Wall Street Journal, 21 November 2007, A1.

¹⁶² See Evelyn Iritani, "In Trade, Globalization Can Divide Old Friends; Asia," Los Angeles Times, 10 October 1999, 1.

¹⁶³ Greg Hitt, "Made in Washington: How the Textile Industry Alone Won Quotas on Chinese Imports," Wall Street Journal, 10 November 2005, A.1.

¹⁶⁴ Greg Hitt, "Made in Washington: How the Textile Industry Alone Won Quotas on Chinese Imports," Wall Street Journal, 10 November 2005, A.1.

¹⁶⁵ Greg Ip, "Politics & Economics: Richest Americans' Income Share Jumps Sharply," Wall Street Journal, 23 September 2006, A4.

¹⁶⁶ See Mauricio Mazon, The Zoot-Suit Riots: The Psychology of Symbolic Annihilation (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1984), 5-6.

¹⁶⁷ See Mauricio Mazon, The Zoot-Suit Riots: The Psychology of Symbolic Annihilation (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1984), 20-21.

¹⁶⁸ Lieutenant Edward Duran Ayres, Los Angeles Sheriff's Department, quoted in Mauricio Mazon, The Zoot-Suit Riots: The Psychology of Symbolic Annihilation (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1984), 21-22.

¹⁶⁹ 7 June 1943 article, quoted in "People & Events: The Zoot Suit Riots of 1943," The American Experience, PBS, http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/amex/zoot/eng_peopleevents/e_riots.html, accessed 9 January 2009.

¹⁷⁰ Anonymous Los Angeles police officer, quoted in "People & Events: The Zoot Suit Riots of 1943," The American Experience, PBS, http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/amex/zoot/eng_peopleevents/e_riots.html, accessed 7 January 2009.

¹⁷¹ People & Events: The Zoot Suit Riots of 1943, The American Experience, PBS, http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/amex/zoot/eng_peopleevents/e_riots.html, accessed 7 January 2009.

¹⁷² Alice Kessler-Harris, Out to Work: A History of Wage-Earning Women in the United States (New York: Oxford University Press, 1982), 48.

¹⁷³ Alice Kessler-Harris, Out to Work: A History of Wage-Earning Women in the United States (New York: Oxford University Press, 1982), 241.

¹⁷⁴ See Sweatshop USA: The American Sweatshop in Historical and Global Perspective, eds. Daniel E. Bender and Richard A. Greenwald (New York : Routledge, 2003), 80-81.

¹⁷⁵ "141 Men and Girls Die in Waist Factory Fire," The New York Times, 26 March 1911, 1.

¹⁷⁶ "141 Men and Girls Die in Waist Factory Fire," The New York Times, 26 March 1911, 1.

¹⁷⁷ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

¹⁷⁸ Michael Posner, quoted in Thomas L. Friedman, "The New Human Rights," New York Times, 30 July 1999, A19.

¹⁷⁹ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

¹⁸⁰ Kevin Burke, quoted in Evelyn Iritani, "Group Calls for Ban on Myanmar Imports; Leading organization of U.S. apparel and footwear makers joins campaign protesting human rights abuses," Los Angeles Times, 16April 2003, C4.

¹⁸¹ Evelyn Iritani, "Group Calls for Ban on Myanmar Imports; Leading organization of U.S. apparel and footwear makers joins campaign protesting human rights abuses," Los Angeles Times, 16April 2003, C4.

¹⁸² Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

¹⁸³ Fred Dickey, "Levi Strauss and the Price We Pay: The Cost of Apparel Has Declined for a Quarter Century, Helping Make Americans the Best- Clothed People in History. All Is Right in the Word, Unless You Ask How It Happened," Los Angeles Times, 1 December 2002, I14.

¹⁸⁴ See Merideth Wright, Everyday Dress of Rural America: 1783-1800, With Instructions and Patterns (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1992), 12.

¹⁸⁵ Linda Baumgarten, What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America (Williamsburg, VA: The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 2002), 162-3.

¹⁸⁶ See Merideth Wright, Everyday Dress of Rural America: 1783-1800, With Instructions and Patterns (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1992), 15.

¹⁸⁷ Linda Baumgarten, What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America (Williamsburg, VA: The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 2002), 164.

¹⁸⁸ Like everything else that he wore or touched, Jefferson's undergarments have been preserved by his estate at Monticello, Virginia. This was only because of his fame; other men's old drawers were turned into rags. Linda Baumgarten, What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America (Williamsburg, VA: The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 2002), 27-9.

¹⁸⁹ See Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 109.

¹⁹⁰ See Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 110.

¹⁹¹ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88; See "The blue jeans story, or how waist overalls for gold diggers, gun slingers and rebels without a cause got smart, clothed the American dream and conquered the world," New Internationalist, June 1998, Iss. 302, 26.

¹⁹² Randye Hoder, "125 Years: Commemorative Fashion Section," Los Angeles Times, 22 October 2006, I38.

¹⁹³ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88; "The blue jeans story, or how waist overalls for gold diggers, gun slingers and rebels without a cause got smart, clothed the American dream and conquered the world," New Internationalist, June 1998, Iss. 302, 26.

¹⁹⁴ Michael Barbaro and Julie Creswell, "With a Trademark in Its Pocket, Levi's Turns to Suing Its Rivals," New York Times, 29 January 2007, A1.

¹⁹⁵ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88; "The blue jeans story, or how waist overalls for gold diggers, gun slingers and rebels without a cause got smart, clothed the American dream and conquered the world," New Internationalist, June 1998, Iss. 302, 26.

¹⁹⁶ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88.

¹⁹⁷ James Dean, In His Own Words (Avenel, New Jersey: Crescent Books, 1991).

¹⁹⁸ "The blue jeans story, or how waist overalls for gold diggers, gun slingers and rebels without a cause got smart, clothed the American dream and conquered the world," New Internationalist, June 1998, Iss. 302, 26.

¹⁹⁹ Robert Lenzner and Stephen S. Johnson, "A few yards of denim and five copper rivets," Forbes 157:4, Feb 26, 1996, 82-88.

²⁰⁰ Current Biography (1982), The H. W. Wilson Company, http://vnweb.hwwilsonweb.com/hww/results/getResults.jhtml?_DARGS=/hww/results/results_common.jhtml.7.

²⁰¹ Calvin Klein, quoted in Stephen Brown, Imagining Marketing: Art, Aesthetics and the Avant-Garde (New York: Routledge, 2001), 36.

²⁰² Rebecca Johnson, "walking a thin line," Vogue 197:4 (April 2007), 380.

²⁰³ Rebecca Johnson, "walking a thin line," Vogue 197:4 (April 2007), 380.

²⁰⁴ Cleo Glyde, "Failure to Lun," Marie Claire 14:4 (April 2007), 115; Rebecca Johnson, "walking a thin line," Vogue 197:4 (April 2007), 380.

²⁰⁵ Cleo Glyde, "Failure to Lun," Marie Claire 14:4 (April 2007), 115.

²⁰⁶ Christina Duff, "Retailing: Designers and stores play dress-up with kids," Wall Street Journal, 13 October 1993, B1.

²⁰⁷ "Keeping Up With Kids," Time 164:20 (15 November 2004), 116.

²⁰⁸ Shane White and Graham White, "Slave clothing and African-American culture in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries," Past & Present (August 1995), http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m2279/is_n148/ai_17474755/pg_2, accessed 9 January 2009.

²⁰⁹ Linda Baumgarten, What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2002), 135.

²¹⁰ Mary V. Thompson, "The Private Life of George Washington's Slaves," Virginia Cavalcade 48:4 (Autumn 1999), 178-190.

²¹¹ Eleanor Alexander, "Slaves in the 'White House': The Washington Years, 1789-1797," paper presented at the annual meeting of the Association for the Study of African-American Life and History, NA, Atlanta, GA, 26 September 2006, http://www.allacademic.com/meta/p142871_index.html, accessed 9 January 2009.

²¹² Shane White and Graham White, "Slave clothing and African-American culture in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries," Past & Present (August 1995), http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m2279/is_n148/ai_17474755/pg_2, accessed 9 January 2009.

²¹³ Shane White and Graham White, "Slave clothing and African-American culture in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries," Past & Present (August 1995), http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m2279/is_n148/ai_17474755/pg_2, accessed 9 January 2009.

²¹⁴ Linda Baumgarten, What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2002), 135.

²¹⁵ Ronald Bailey, "The Other Side of Slavery: Black Labor, Cotton, and Textile Industrialization in Great Britain and the United States," Agricultural History 68:2, Eli Whitney's Cotton Gin, 1793-1993: A Symposium. (Spring, 1994), pp. 35-50.

²¹⁶ Ronald Bailey, "The Other Side of Slavery: Black Labor, Cotton, and Textile Industrialization in Great Britain and the United States," Agricultural History 68:2, Eli Whitney's Cotton Gin, 1793-1993: A Symposium. (Spring, 1994), pp. 36.

²¹⁷ Ronald Bailey, "The Other Side of Slavery: Black Labor, Cotton, and Textile Industrialization in Great Britain and the United States," Agricultural History 68:2, Eli Whitney's Cotton Gin, 1793-1993: A Symposium. (Spring, 1994), pp. 39-42.

²¹⁸ See Tera W. Hunter, To 'Joy My Freedom: Southern Black Women's Lives and Labors After the Civil War (Cambridge: Harvard Press, 1997).

²¹⁹ Lisa M. Lauria, University of Virginia, Sexual Misconduct in Plymouth Colony, Appendices I and II, 1998, Appendix I: The Laws, The Plymouth Colony Archive Project, http://www.histarch.uiuc.edu/plymouth/Lauria2.html, accessed 9 January 2009.

²²⁰ Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 14.

²²¹ See Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 28-9.

²²² Patrick Moore, "My Sisters: A Gay Man Learns to Love Trans Women," The Advocate, no. 982, 27 March 2007), pp. 34-36.

²²³ John Demos, A Little Commonwealth: Family Life in Plymouth Colony, 2d ed. (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1999), 53-56.

²²⁴ "'Mythconceptions' Quiz Answer Key," Colonial House, PBS, http://www.pbs.org/wnet/colonialhouse/print/p-teach_lesson1_answers.html, accessed 8 January 2009.

²²⁵ John Demos, A Little Commonwealth: Family Life in Plymouth Colony, 2d ed. (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1999), 53-56.

²²⁶ George Francis Dow, Every Day Life in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, new ed. (1935; New York: Dover Publications, 1988), 60, 63-64.

²²⁷ George Francis Dow, Every Day Life in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, new ed. (1935; New York: Dover Publications, 1988), 64.

²²⁸ See the Harper's Bazaar survey conducted in 1934, cited in Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau, Uplift: The Bra in America (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 72.

²²⁹ See Elaine Benson and John Esten, Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear (Simon & Schuster, 1996), 109.

²³⁰ Merideth Wright, Everyday Dress of Rural America: 1783-1800, With Instructions and Patterns (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1992), 9.

²³¹ Deborah Gray White, Ar'n't I a Woman?: Female Slaves in the Plantation South (New York: W. W. Norton, 1999), 95.

²³² Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 29-30.

²³³ Merideth Wright, Everyday Dress of Rural America: 1783-1800, With Instructions and Patterns (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1992), 9.

²³⁴ Jenny Lyn Bader, "The Miniskirt as a National Security Threat," New York Times, 10 September 2000, 4.3.

²³⁵ Jenny Lyn Bader, "The Miniskirt as a National Security Threat," New York Times, 10 September 2000, 4.3.

²³⁶ Sandra O'Loughlin, "Levi's boasts 150 years of wares via nostalgic vintage jeans tour," Brandweek 44:19, 12 May 2003, 41.

²³⁷ Linda Baumgarten, What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America (Williamsburg, VA: The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 2002), 164.

²³⁸ From Chapter 4, available as electronic text from the University of Adelaide Library, 2004, .

²³⁹ "From 5 Societies, 486 Members, Atlanta, Georgia, to Mr. Jim English, Mayor of Atlanta, 1 August [1881]," quoted in Tera Hunter, Lesson Plan: African-American Workers' Protest in the New South, http://www.oah.org/pubs/magazine/gilded/hunter.html, accessed 7 January 2009.

²⁴⁰ George Washington Plunkitt, "Dangers of the Dress Suit in Politics," recorded by journalist William L. Riordon, 1905, in Caroline Kennedy, A Patriot's Handbook: Songs, Poems, Stories, and Speeches Celebrating the Land We Love (New York: Hyperion, 2003), 85-6.

²⁴¹ Quoted in Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 18.

²⁴² Niko Koppel, "Are Your Jeans Sagging? Go Directly to Jail," New York Times, 30 August 2007, http://www.nytimes.com/2007/08/30/fashion/30baggy.html?_r=1&oref=slogin, accessed 9 January 2009.

²⁴³ Niko Koppel, "Are Your Jeans Sagging? Go Directly to Jail," New York Times, 30 August 2007, http://www.nytimes.com/2007/08/30/fashion/30baggy.html?_r=1&oref=slogin, accessed 9 January 2009.

²⁴⁴ Quoted in Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 113.

²⁴⁵

²⁴⁶ Quoted in Jill Fields, An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 174.

²⁴⁷ Diane Feinstein, quoted in Karen De Witt, "The Nation: Beware of Him Who Requires New Clothes," New York Times, 26 March 1995, 4.16.

²⁴⁸ Calvin Klein, quoted in Stephen Brown, Imagining Marketing: Art, Aesthetics and the Avant-Garde (New York: Routledge, 2001), 36.

²⁴⁹ Irma Lipton, quoted in Karen De Witt, "The Nation: Beware of Him Who Requires New Clothes," New York Times, 26 March 1995, 4.16.

²⁵⁰ Sadie Frowne, "Days and Dreams," quoted in The Independent, 25 September 1902, from Leon Stein, Out of the Sweatshop: The Struggle for Industrial Democracy (New York: Quadrangle/New York Times Book Co., 1977), 60-61.

²⁵¹ See "The blue jeans story, or how waist overalls for gold diggers, gun slingers and rebels without a cause got smart, clothed the American dream and conquered the world," New Internationalist, June 1998, Iss. 302, 26.